This Collings D3 had been damaged to the point that a new top was the only option. After the neck, bridge and pickguard were removed I sent the router around the top perimeter cutting the top through to the edge kerfing.

With the perimeter routed through I freehand cut the heel and end block.

There wasn't anything holding the old top in place now.

Starting clean after vacuuming all the dust and debris.

This photo shows the outer celluloid binding remaining in place which saves me from having to touch the sides.

Ok, this is a pretty marginal detail to depict but I've repaired a lot of these mahogany endblocks that split right though the endpin hole. The Collings shop inlays a mahogany strip with the grain running opposite for additional strength. (So far I've never had to repair a Collings end block and don't expect to in the future).

This soundboard was shipped in from Collings. Bruce VanWart, a longtime employee there (and fellow New Englander) voices all the tops.

With the new top fit in place, tape holds everything tight while the adhesive cures.

A router carefully cuts a channel for the purfling trim.

 

Click on the arrow to see the completed work.